I Will Surf Pt. 2
Back with the late posts!! With ten minutes to spare.
I just want to update you guys on the surfing. Last night, I took the surfboard (that I got battered on at the beach) straight to the swimming pool. From there, Nick proceeded to coach me from the side of the pool as I slowly but surely managed to power up my balance, pivoting, and paddling power on the surfboard.
I understand now why surfers have amazing bodies because my abs are sore from just trying to sit on the surfboard for an extended period of time.
Here are some things I learned while paddling back and forth in Nick's swimming pool:
- I found that (on the 7 foot surfboard I use) I have more control if I lie about 2-ish feet down the board. I'm not actually quite sure about that measurement but I found that positioning myself just a little bit under the Viper logo on the board gives me the best control
- Looking straight ahead to where I want to go while I'm paddling helps me keep my balance easier than looking at the board if I start to get a little wobbly. In other words, ignore the wobbly and keep paddling.
- Sometimes, it's about paddling deeper rather than faster
- Fluid movements are less energy consuming than fragmented ones
- When trying to pivot backwards to catch a wave, starting the turn when you move down the board (so the nose is facing up out of the water) makes life much easier
I'm definitely feeling my inner Kelly Slater starting to come out now. Still have a long way to go, but I'm excited to update you all on how my next - real - surfing attempt goes. Woo!